Namakkal Fort and Temple Tour (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Namakkal Fort and Temple Tour (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Last Saturday, I made up my mind to go to Namakkal. It would be a temple tour especially. The biggest issue with temple tours always is the timings. Temples always close during noon (Nadai Moodudhal). So the trip has to start early in the morning and get over by noon before say 1 pm.

I pulled myself out of the bed at 6 am. Got ready and since my cook ditched me, had to get my breakfast from the hotel. A typical South Indian breakfast of 4 idlies and I was off to Namakkal by around 8. It was a beautiful day and the climate was great and was slightly drizzling.

I reached Namakkal at 9 and first in the list was Ranganathar Koil. Asking the locals how to go about, I started walking the directed lane. While I was walking the Namakkal fort was so well visible and I was filled with awe. Half the way, was Narasimhar Koil. But my mom had told me, Ranganathar Koil, being a very small temple, closes early. I asked the vendors outside the temple, to direct me to the Ranganathar Koil and I was told it opens also late. Well, then let me start with Narasimhar Koil.

Its located in the western side of the hill. The Vishnu in Narasimhar Koil is Sri Lakshmi Narasimhar and the devi here is Sri Namagiri Lakshmi. Vishnu here is in his fourth incarnation of Narasimhar – The lion, I which he comes out of the pillar and kills Hiranya Kasibhu with his claws during an evening, to defy all the powers of Hiranya and protect his devotee Prahaladha. It is said that the anger of Narasimhar after killing Hiranya Kasibhu was calmed down by Lakshmi in Namakkal. This was built by Adhiyaman Gunaseelan in 8^th Century.

This temple is a cave temple, i.e, the garbha graham (sancutum sanctorum) is created by digging into the cave 10 feet deep. The rest of the temple including the Ardha Mandabam, Maha mandabam, Namagiri Thayar’s sanctum sanctorum and entrance is located outside the cave. There is no Vimanam at the entrance.

Within the sanctum sanctorum, the Narasimhar is seated in the Virasanam with one leg folded and another leg placed on the ground. He has 4 arms. The palm of the front right hand is in the blessing posture. It has a purple tint. It’s said that it’s the tint of the blood of Hiranya Kasibhu. The two arms behind had Sangu (Conch shell) and Chakkaram (Wheel). On either sides are Suryan(Sun) and Chandran(Moon) waving the Samaram(Fan). Lord Shiva and Lord Brahma are on either sides trying to cool His temper. Since all 3 Gods are here, this is considered a Trimurthy Stalam. Lakshmi is not on his lap as usual but in the pendant on His heart.

On the right is the Ongi Ulagalanda Perumal. This is not a stand-alone sculpture, but a bas relief. There is Vamanan – The short one (Vishnu’s fifth incarnation), beside with Mahabali Chakravarthy and Sukrachariyaar. Sukrachariyaar is seen to be giving instructions to Mahabali. After Mahabali grants all wishes, the reforms himself as the Ulagalandha Perumal. Namusi is seen almost in inverted ‘U’ shape after been thrown to the sky by Perumal. Jambavan (a holy bear) is seen beside Namusi. There is a horse to the right as well.

Further to the right is the Varaha Avatharam (the pig incarnation). All the four vedams (scriptures) are seen atop His nose. One of His legs is seen only till the knee and another till the ankle. Adhisheshan (His snake) and Niladevi are seen below trying to search His feet, for a Paadha Darisanam.

To the left is Abhaya Narasimhar – helper, with all other gods praying Vishnu to stop the evil deeds of Hiranya Kasibhu and to kill him.

To further left is the Ugra Narasimhar - angry, in the process of killing Hiranya Kasibhu.

Outside the Garbha Graha are the shrines of Ramanujar, Krishnar, Ramar etc.

Namagiri Thayar’s sanctum sanctorum is located to the left and...

... to opposite if the Sthala Vruksham with several prayer thottil (cradles) tied up. There is a Gopuram atop Namagiri Thayar’s shrine.

There are several inscriptions everywhere on the floor and walls in ancient Tamizh.

After having a great Darshan and a friendly Gurukkal who stopped his devotees for some time to explain me every sculpture and bas relief in detail, I just crossed the road to meet Hanuman, the leader of all the superheroes!!!

The Hanuman here is 18.5’ high. This Anjaneyar/Hanuman was essentially open to all without any walls. During ancient days, with single storied buildings all around, this was a very tall structure and could be seen from a very long distance and even neighboring villages. But now recently, with several high rise buildings beside, this is not seen from long. Further a compound wall has been constructed around this but without ceiling and open to see Narasimhar and worshipping Him.

 

Well, it is a practice to leave the footwear outside the temple. And in bigger temples with huge crowd, there are these free footwear counter which take care of our footwear and a token is given as a proof. Something like a locker room. I found these 3 girls at the footwear counter. The daughters of the lady there. I found them too irresistable to capture in my frame. This is the result. :)

From there, I reached the Ranganathar Koil. The Ranganathar Koil is located to the eastern side of the fort.

This is at an altitude from the ground level. After climbing up by 100 steps, I reached the temple. Within the Ardha Mandabam, I had to climb up by some 10 steps to reach the Garbha Graha to see the huge Vishnu in Anantha Sayanam (Sleeping posture). This too is dug 10 feet inside the hill. This temple was built by Vijaya Narasimha Pallavan. His sculpture is below Ranganathar.

The Adhiseshan (snake) here has lion face. This is very unusual and is called KaarKotakam. This is to specify his greatness as the king of all snakes. There are several bas relief’s behind Vishnu’s sculpture including Brahma (on the lotus emanating from Vishnu’s belly button), Naradha, Madhukadaibhar, Suryan, Chandran etc.

On the right, is the bas relief of Sankara Narayanar (Right half – Shiva; Left half – Vishnu). On the left is the Ongi Ulagalandha Perumal as in Narasimhar Koil.

Outside to the left is the Garbha Graha of Laksmi. It has a Gopuram.

Further to the right and left of the temple are small ponds at that altitude. That was surprising for me. I asked the Gurukkal if the pond was having ‘ootru neer’ for which he said it was the rain water which flows from the hill and gets collected her. These ponds were around 7 -8 feet deep and within the ponds were several snails.

Above those ponds were huge honeycombs. I really loved them.

Then started off from there and tried to find the base of the route to climb up to the Namakkal fort. With the stunning climate and bellowing clouds above the fort, the walk was perfect. This was built by RamaNayak, a Nayak ruler. It was great trip towards the fort. As usual as the altitude rises, the wind, without any restriction blows fiercer and faster.

 

Unfortunately, I couldn’t venture into the fort as it was closed for public viewing at present due to renovation going on inside. All these temples and the fort are protected by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) and are Places of National Importance.

After spending some time there above, I came down and walked to the busstand. On the way is the Kamalalaya Kulam – the holy tank of Sri Mahalakshmi’s Tapovanam (Garden).

Namakkal is the place where Mathematical Genius Ramanujan lived.

It was past 1 pm by then and I started my backward journey and reached home with the blessings of Narasimhar, Ranganathar and Anjaneyar.

Kollimalai (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Kollimalai (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Same Apache of Mayanur and the same 2 of us and the print out of the blog posts of blogger friend Megarajan. As I got ready, it started to pour down. We waited for some more time, and when the rain subsided a bit, at around 8 AM, we started off. With a couple of stops in between, thanks to the rain, we finally reached the destination. We rather overshoot the location where we had to take a right turn and reached a point where the board directed to Salem and Chennai. We took a reverse again and got the right point to turn left!!!

And then started the amazing drive upon 70 hair pin bends to reach the peak located at 1300 m above sea level. Believe me, 70 odd hair pin bends. This is the maximum in Tamil Nadu. It was not too populated. It was not scarily lonely.

The wind was chill, the climate was cool, the air was moist with the rain – it was just perfect. Then as we gained altitude, we were just in midst of the clouds and it was a paradise!!!

Kollimalai is a precious herbal spot. Even the wind seemed the carry a medicated herbal essence. The hill range has been spoken of in several Tamil Literatures. I remember once in school days, I read a poem ‘Kollimalai enakkilaya Chellimalai Amme…’. Well. I forgot who wrote it and in which literary work was it!!! Does it ring a bell to any of you guys? Many of the mountain kings like, Paari, Ori were great rulers of this locality.

After stopping at a couple of view points, we reached the peak where there was a board that directed us to Arappaleeswarar Koil & Akash Ganga. We headed to the temple. We found a small hotel there where I enquired for breakfast,. The lady there asked, why not meals; It was only then did I realize it was past 12 noon. After basic prayer offering, we headed to the Mini Falls first.

From the temple, a right took us to the mini falls and the left to the Akash Ganga. With just 100 steps to reach it, it was a really a ‘mini’ falls. Rather, it was just a stream!!!

We came back up and took the left to the Akash Ganga. Climbing down was not tough. There were some impressive view points. The path went swirling down!!! Walking in the midst of the mist and fog and cloud was a great feeling!!! And after climbing down completely, there at a distance I could spot the waterfalls. It didn’t seem big. A few more steps and the last lap was a walk through rocks & boulders – and there I was in the front of the impressive, huge, magnificent Akash Ganga. It was massive, no other better adjective for it!!!

This is called Aagaya Gangai in Tamil. The river called Pancha Nathi aka Iyaaru (5 rivers) falls down here from 300 feet to form this magnificent waterfalls. Unlike Hogenakkal, here the water was pristine and its not polluted.

Somehow, I dunno why, but I didn’t feel like venturing right below the falls. A stream of water was between me and the waterfalls. A stream, less said. It was something between a stream and a river. The water current was furious!!! However some make shift arrangement were made to reach the waterfalls. A rope that ties the position with the iron rods below the falls, was use the hold and walk to the falls without getting carried away by the current!!!

After some time, we started to climb up the stairs. Yes, this was definitely more hectic than climbing down. It was difficult. Really really difficult. Lemme tell you now, its almost a thousand steps!!! At a point we both ran out of breath. Somehow I managed, but I friend had a real difficult time and finally we made it to the top. On the way, I realized the biggest mistake we did – Not carrying enough water for the climbing!!!

Just as we reached the end of the never-ending steps, a store had a delicious display of cool drinks (This is marketing which IIM doesn’t teach!!!). No one can resist the temptation to buy a bottle of some cool drink here. Yes, we too did.

From there we started to the Ruined Jain Temple (Samanar Koil) which has been recently excavated which was built during the Pallava Period. A right cut from the Dharma Vidyalaya enroute, was the road that leads to the temple. The Ettukkai Amman temple is also pretty near to the Shiva Temple. Rather, that was what we were told. But unfortunately, with the road being built now & with the rains, the road was rather pathetic. It was impossible to drive thru it. I suggested my friend to leave the bike and to take a stroll to the temples. He said ‘Leave my new bike here on the road!!!’..??? Well, I dare not say a word after that!!! We returned and enquired for the next place – Mudhumakkal Thazhi.

Mudhumakkal Thazhi is nothing but the burial urns. This also has been recently excavated and this is solid 2000 years old. Know what, this is what I love about India. I get to witness my history right since 2000 yrs old!!! That’s why something that is of 1600C or 1700C (i.e. 300 to 400 yrs old) never ever excites me!!!!! This road too was muddy and freaky. And its been a stupidity to construct concrete stage around it that it has lost it old charm. Its easy to miss it and we did. It’s a small concrete platform on the left of the road.

From there we tried to find the Shiva Temple which again is a Pallava Architechture and been recently excavated. But by the time, dusk began to fall and we thought it better to start our return journey. Travelling through 70 hairpin bends is better done in day light rather than after dusk!!!

One day is definitely not enough to venture to every other place in Kolli Hills. Kolli has around 15 to 16 places to visit. I could venture only to 3-4 in a day. So imagine your scale of stay needed to enjoy Kolli completely. Hope I’ll go there some other day to check out the left out spots.

Again the 70 hair pin bends and by the time we reached Karur back we were bloody damn hungry that we preferred to stop over at a Dhaba and have a sumptuous meal!!! The hunger, the chillness together with a single meal day long, credited to the scenario, and should I even say we ate like pigs!!!!!

Mohanur Temple Tour Part I (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Mohanur Temple Tour Part I (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Mid of Jan is auspicious all over India. In Punjab its Lohri, in rest of north India its Makara Sankaranthi, in south India it’s called Pongal. It’s all and one and one and all and it’s a harvest festival very special all over India. And I am usually at my home with my parents for every Pongal, but this Pongal, I couldn’t get back home. I was down with 102 deg the previous night of Pongal and was a bit better only the next day. The next day was Maatu Pongal which is the auspicious day for the animal that’s so important for harvesting – cows and oxes!!!

On this day, I left to Mohanur, a place where I heard about the existence of 3 different ancient temples.

Before getting into the details about the temple, first lemme tell you about Mohanur. The reason for the name Mohanur itself is interesting.

One reason is that the people of this region worked as middle men or agents in the ancient era. Mugavar is the term in Tamizh for agents. So the place came to be known as Mugavanur which derived later on as Moganur.

Another reason is that Lord Shiva wanted to see the reincarnation of Lord Vishnu as a woman i.e. Mohini, here in this location. So Mohanur!!!

Another reason goes as a reasonably longer. Once all the heavenly devas went in search of Lord Shiva accompanied by Ganga. But he was alone there. So they started their search for Ganga and went to Lord Muruga. He too started to search her. Searching her, they reached Madurai where Madurai Meenakshi directed them towards north near Cauvery. Lord Muruga came to Cauvery, yet didn’t find her. So He went on a severe meditation on her. Ganga appeared in front of him. She was so over-whelmed by his motherly love and hugged him. Since the mother-son love between them was found here, the place was called Maganur. Magan means son in Tamizh. Maganur later derived as Mohanur!!!

So, here is my first temple visit. The first one was the Kalyana Venkatramanar Temple. Its again a wedding special temple. Remember the other 2 – Thanthondrimalai venkatramanar and Nithyakalyana Perumal. This temple has no epitaphs in it and so the origin dates are not found. However, the entrance of the sanctum sanctorum has a wristband and sword symbol on it. It’s a signature of the Nayaks. So it is assumed that this temple belongs to the Nayak Era. The main god here is Lord Vishnu as Lord Kalyana Venkatramanar.

The legend here is that a poor old Brahmin was on his foot towards Tirupathi. But his leg got fractured enroute. So he cried to the Lord about his inability to proceed further. So the Lord said that the next morning he would appear here itself in front of him. He slept in peace of mind and the next morning there the Lord appeared to him in the very location. Now that very location is where the temple is.

Radha Kalyanam is an auspicious festival which occurs here often. Last week Radha Kalyanam happened here for 4 days. So, what exactly is Radha Kalyanam – Remember the Radha Kalyanam I attended in Manathattai Agraharam?

First shrine here in the circumambulatory passage is of Chakkarathazhvar which is essentially newly constructed. He is one among the 12 Vaishnavaite Saints or Azhwars. He is depicted as on a wheel or Chakram. On the anterior side of the wheel is Yoga Narasimhar.

Further on the circumambulation passage is the shrine of Dhanvanthri who is considered as the medical God. He is considered as the doctor of doctors.

From there the next shrine is of Shri Lakshmi Hayagreevar. Hayagreevar is the horse faced incarnation of Lord Vishnu.

Just opposite to his shrine is the shrine of Medha Saraswasthi, who is essentially the Goddess of knowledge and education. She is usually seen holding the musical instrument Veena in her hand. But here quite unusually she doesn’t have one.

The Sthala Vruksham (Holy Tree) here is the Vilvam and the Theertham (Holy Water) here is River Cauvery as this temple is located at the shores of River Cauvery.

From there my next destination was Achaladeepeshwarar temple which is a Lord Shiva Temple. This temple was located at the end of the road leading to the river from Kalyana Venkatramanar Temple.

Guess my post is going too long. I’ll get back about Achaladeepeshwarar and the 3^rd temple back soon!!!

Before I go, this shot from near the temple is of a little wooden bridge that caught my attention!!! Here for you to enjoy as well!!!

TO GET THERE:

From Karur: 40 km via Velur

From Erode: 71 km via Paramathi

From Trichy: 80 km via Kulithalai

From Salem: 70 km via Namakkal

TO STAY:

Mohanur has a government guest house near the river near Achaladeepeshwarar temple about which I do not know the details.

However the nearest town to stay in private hotels of all price ranges is Karur.

Mohanur Temple Tour Part II (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Mohanur Temple Tour Part II (Namakkal - Tamil Nadu)

Where were we? Yeah right, at Achaladeepeshwarar Temple!!!

The Lord Shiva here is called Lord Achaladeepeshwarar and the Ambal here is called Madhukaraveni. This temple was built during 1449-54 during the reign of Sri Anganna Nayakkar by Sendhamangalam Palayakkarargal. Hymns were sung on this temple by one of the 4 Saivaite saints, Appar.

Mostly temples are East facing and there are very few temples that face west and this is one of the west facing temples. So what does the Lord Shiva look at facing the west, River Cauvery ofcourse. Did I specify this temple is located in the banks of river Cauvery? The Saivate temples located in the banks of river Cauvery are very special by themselves. Remember, Kulithalai and Kodumudi??? Its all in the banks of River Cauvery.

Another major feature of the temple – is very much within the Achaladeepeshwarar’s sanctum sanctorum. There is oxygen in here, there is air, but it doesn’t move, there is no wind. So what? So, the diya or the lamp lighted in here does not flutter or move at all!!! Miraculous? Indeed!!!

A special prayer here in this temple, is Mouna Viratham. That is essentially a silence prayer. To stay in this temple for a few days and be silent throughout and offering that silence itself to the Lord is considered a very special prayer. This offering is especially for child bearing issues. Did I specify earlier that this temple is a pregnancy specialty temple??? After we came across wedding and women health specialty temples in my older posts, now this is pregnancy specialty temple!!! This offering is further extended by cooking along with the maintenance of the silence and performing Annadanam (food offering to general public).

The other shrines here are of Chandran, Sooriyan, Dakshinamurthy, Kannimoola Ganapathy, Raghu (with his wife), Kedhu, Kaala Bhairavar, Chandikesar, Navagraha, Ayyanar, Sarabeshwarar, and 63 Saivaite Saints. The Sthala Vruksham (Holy Tree) is Vilvam and the Theertham (Holy Water) is Cauvery river indeed.

On the western side of the temple, just opposite to the temple, but before the Cauvery river, is a huge Peepal tree. Below this Peepal tree are several sculptures of Naagar (snake). These are kept by devotees as a dosha parihara for Raaghu Dosham. This temple is also special for weddings.

I came out of the temple and stood in the river for some time. Somehow the river gave me this strong urge to walk across it like the way I reached Agasthair Paarai.

After soaking my feet in the water for some time and getting the fish pedicure at no cost at all (!!!), I walked down the street again.

I enquired about this temple called the Thangamma Pillayar Temple. I was told to take a little street beside a Ramana Madam (Math) I found enroute. I did find the shrine there. It was a little temple, more than that, it could be called just a shrine. It enclosed both Lord Ganesha and Lord Karthikeya/Muruga.

The streams from the main River Cauvery that run throughout this little village somehow made the place so beautiful and serene and so amazingly peaceful!!!

Kadambar Koil (Trichy - Tamil Nadu)

Kadambar Koil (Trichy - Tamil Nadu)

Its been a while ever since I wanted to visit Kadambar Koil, Kulithalai. Last time when I started, I somehow ended up visiting Pettavaithalai and from there explored to Thirupparaithurai. So last Sunday, I made it a point to visit Kulithalai.

As for every temple tour, I had to wake up at 6:30 and leave soon, as the temples close in the noon for Nadai Moodudhal. I took the bus and reached Kulithalai bus stop by around 9:30. The temple is located very near to the bus stop. As usual after enquired about the whereabouts of ‘Ishwaran Koil’, I started walking. Just a 10 min walk and I reached the road behind the temple. I walked around and reached the entrance.

This temple is called Dhakshina Kasi. Kasi is another name the Mystical Holy Place – Benaras (Dunno when am I gonna visit the Mystical place myself!!! Lets see). Dhakshina means South, so this place is considered as Benaras of South.

The Lord here is Lord Shiva called Kadambavaneshwarar. Goddess Parvathi here is called Balakujalambal aka Mutrila Mulaiyambikai.

The legend here is that the Saptha Kanniyar (7 young ladies) were affected by the Brahmagathi Dosham due to the bane of an angry Kathyaayana Saint. He was angered coz they caused distraction to him when the battle between the Devas (Angels) and Asuras (Demons) persisted. And when these 7 young ladies realized their mistake and asked sorry, they were asked to perform prayers to the Ishwaran (Lord Shiva) who is North Faced.

So the very place is Kulithalai where Kadambavaneshwarar faces north which is a very rare phenomenon. He is here in the form of Suyambu (Self formed) Lingam. In the Sanctum Sanctorum, behind Him are the Saptha Kanniyar.

The Sthala Vruksham (Temple tree) is Kadamba Maram. That is the reason why he’s called Kadamba Vaneshwarar.

This place is a specialty for people with Brahmagathi Dosham. Also it’s a wedding specialty place. Nearly 200 weddings happen here per year to Ishwaran and Ambal. Thinking why would they get married so many times to each other.? It’s a practice o’er here is that when a wedding ritual prayer is conducted between Ishwaran (Lord Shiva) and Ambal (His consort, Goddess Parvathi), their wedding would happen soon without any trouble.

Murugan Sathru Samhara Poojai another specialty here to remove all obstacles that might happen in any particular thing, say business.

Iyadigal Kadavar Kon (one among the 63 Saivaite saints) has sung hymns on this place.

I started circumambulating. I met Jeshta Devi, Suriyan (Sun), Arubathumoovar (63 saints of Saivism), Nalvar (The 4 saints), Chandikesar, Dakshinamurthy, Ganapathy, Annamalayar, Arumugar, Akora Virabadhrar, Pancha Lingam (the lingam’s that denote the 5 elements of nature), Somaskandhar (the little baby Lord Muruga), Gajalakshmi (Goddess Lakshmi with Elephants), Sanishwarar (Lord of Saturday).

This temple was built during the era of Cholas. It was then renovated during the era of Nagaraththar rule under Devakottai chettiyar.

Kadambar Koil is considered as the 2nd of the 108 Saivaite temples. Beside the flowing Cauvery River the places was so so so scenic.

I came out of the temple and there was this beautiful Thear (Temple car).

Beside was a lorry and these cute goats standing under its shadow!!!

The best part was the finishing given by the temple priest Swaminatha Kurukkal. When I enquired about the nearby place called Manathattai Agraharam, he asked he to go there immediately as there was a Radha Kalyanam function happening there, and in that decent devotional, well-to-do crowd, I might find a right guy for me!!! Wow, isn’t that a perfect reason to venture to that place and I did just the same!!! What happened in Manathattai Agraharam.? Coming soon……